| Headset Installation :: |
| Of course, before you install the headset you must make sure the steerer tube on the fork is the right length. Once your certain it’s the right, you're ready to install the headset. Firstly you may need to install the ‘starfangle’ nut. This makes the headset tight and secure to install this it has to be hit* down the centre of the fork steerer tube, until it is about 1.5cm down. You can do this with a hammer and a blunt object, which fits down your steerer tube. |
| Next you then install the race. This is a ring of metal that is pushed on the bottom of the steer tube to assure that the bearings run smooth at the bottom. To do this I usually hit it down with a ‘blunt screw driver.’ It is sometimes annoying to put these on as it’s tricky and you have to move about to assure it’s on straight. |
| The next step is the cups. Whether you've got a threaded or threadless headset, you've got to install the two bearing cups that sit on top and bottom of your head tube. Make sure that the insides are greased before installing to assure a smoother run. These things are normally installed into your frame by a headset press tool. But if you are like me then I can’t normally be bothered to buy one, so I get a piece of wood and a hammer. Line up the headset cup so that it is resting evenly in the head tube hole, then hold the wood resting it on top of the cup and hit* the wood making sure the cup is centered and it has gone all the way in. This isn’t really a bodge method but just a cheaper version of the proper headset press. Once both of the cups are in you are ready to install the next part of your headset. |
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The races are now to be installed. This is a simple process; firstly make sure that the bearing races are well greased, as your headset won’t run as smooth otherwise. Then place the hole in the race through the fork steerer tube until is resting at the bottom of the fork. Then slide the fork steerer tube through the head tube, unit the bearings disappear into the previously installed cups. Then put the other (well-greased) race over the steer tube again and drop it down so it’s resting in the top cup. Next clean off any grease from around the steerer tube with a cloth of some sort. Now you can assemble the other part of the headset. |
After you have installed the races you can now get the other ring that is part of the headset. Try not to get this mixed up with the race. This is then slimmed over and down the steerer tube until it sits comfortably on the top of the headset cup. It should freely slide around the top of the cup. Then another ring will have to be added. This ring will go over the fork steerer tube, like all the other parts. Then it will push down into the centre of the ring that was just installed. Don’t worry if it doesn’t go completely down as it will when tightened. |
| Now put the stem on the steerer tube a push it down if steerer tube comes over the top of stem apply some stem stackers. Until the stem is about 5mm above the top tube. Then get the top cap and the bolt and screw the bolt in the 'starfangle nut' that was installed earlier, then push down on the step and tighten the bolt making sure that it is reasonably tight and the top cap doesn’t move at all. Then tighten up the stem bolts so that they are fairly tight as well. Then that is it, hay presto! After a day you may find that the headset is stiff or lose. To stop it from shacken losen the stem bolts and push the stem down whilst tighting the top cap bolt, tighten the stem again and now it should of stop. The headset may be stiff; as it has to bed in give it a week for this process and for the greese to fine out. Thanks. |
| NOTE: MTB TRIALS UK doesn’t take any reasonability for actions caused in this method of installing a headset! |
| NOTE: These instructions are based on a FSA Pig Headset, chosen because of its popularity. |
| * Be very careful when hitting things with a hammer! |